Unraveling Nepal’s Ancient Durbars: The Whispering Stones that Bring Life to History
Nepal’s durbars-its ancient palaces-are not merely awe-inspiring pieces of architecture; they are stories of empires,
spiritualities, and art. Traverse the Basantapur Durbar, Nuwakot Durbar, Gorkha Durbar, Lamjung Durbar, and Kaskikot
Durbar halls to reveal layers that defined this nation. It is here that one may look into the very soul of Nepal with
grandeur and grassroots tradition.
Basantapur Durbar (Kathmandu Durbar Square) dazzles with untamed beauty. The 16th-century wealth, a UNESCO
World Heritage, is a mosaic of Newari architecture. Behold such beautifully carved wooden windows, the stone courtyard
in Hanuman Dhoka Palace, and Taleju Temple as tall as a skyscraper. Although the 2015 earthquake has left its mark,
restoration of its temples and statues—like the fabled palace of Goddess Kumari—continues to infuse its soul. Locals
continue to visit for festivals, and the past is present here.
And Nuwakot Durbar—northwestern Kathmandu palace-fortress of Nepal’s great unifier, King Prithvi Narayan Shah’s
1700s battles. Climb its seven-storey structure—panorama views over Trishuli River valley—then realize why it was a
strategical choice. Palace intrigue and warfare murmur through crumbling old brick and neighboring Bhairavi Temple.
Stay on to see sunset here—it’s as if gold spills over hills.
Gorkha Durbar, the Shah dynasty’s birthplace, is heaven for historians. The palace complex atop the hill is a palace, a fort,
and a temple. Views worth the climb are the Himalayan vista and the Kalika temple to which pilgrims still make short
pilgrimages so that blessings shower on them. Here inspiration, as practice went, was literally prayed for by Prithvi
Narayan Shah before unification of Nepal—a practice that was in vogue until the holy gates.
Lamjung Durbar, mid-hills, is a page lost. Medieval politics complicated the past, rock foundation endured and
woodwork carvings of the past recount poorer but richer past. Halfway between villages and till lands, it’s low-key
alternative to more flamboyant durbars—a natural choice for those who like unspun, unvarnished history.
Lastly, Kaskikot Durbar near Pokhara is a hiker’s secret. Hidden in forests, its ruins—crumbling gateways, temple bases—
are steeped in myths. Some say the Pandavas of the Mahabharata hid here during exile. Trek through rhododendron trails
to reach it, and you’ll understand why it’s called a “kingdom in the clouds.”
These durbars are not relics of the past; they are entrances that connect Nepal’s past to the present. From Basantapur’s
carnival beauty to Kaskikot’s far-off remoteness, they beckon and summon one back in time. By remaining inviolate in
the hands of villagers, they are free to keep speaking their tales, teaching lessons of patience and imagination ad
infinitum. There remains yet that much more in store for Nepal from the traders of commerce, though – where every inch
and every corner is caressed by artisans, warriors, and kings.
nepalcalling –
wow it’s good